Sunday, May 1, 2011

Kitchen Experiment: Coconut Vegan Caramels

I've been wanting to offer a dairy free caramel for my friends and customers who are lactose intolerant or choose not to consume animal products. Traditionally caramels are full of cream and butter. My challenge is to replace the fat, protein, sugars and liquid provided by these dairy products with plant based alternatives, while maintaining the right flavor, texture and consistency. Coconut has a wonderful rich flavor which I think will pair nicely with caramel and also contains plenty of fat, proteins, sugars...etc. I've also decided to add some toasted coconut flakes to boost the flavor and provide an interesting texture visually and in the mouth.

I'm starting with this recipe:
1/2 cup Sugar
3 oz Dark Corn Syrup
1/2 cup Cream (divided)
4 oz Butter

I am using organic evaporated cane syrup for the sugar. Replaced the corn syrup with organic agave syrup (some of the stuff I've been reading about what's going on with corn these days is scary). For the cream I am using regular coconut milk to replace the cream. The butter replacement is problematic most plant based fats are in the form of oils which are almost 100% fat. Butter is usually 80% fat, the composition of remaining 20% consisting of proteins, milk solids and water. I'm worried that if I replace the butter with an oil the resulting product will not be smooth and may turn out greasy. After looking at several options I have decided to use creamed coconut. It has a high fat content, but also contains liquids, proteins and fiber. After my adjustments I have this recipe:
1/2 cup Sugar
3 oz Agave Syrup
1/2 cup Coconut Milk
2 oz Creamed Coconut
Toasted coconut flakes for garnish

I followed my usual caramel making method to cook the candy.

Step 1
Gather all ingredients and materials:
A small heavy bottomed pot
Wooden Spoon
Candy, or digital thermometer
Heat resistant rubber spatula
A small loaf pan - to use as a mold
Aluminum Foil - to line mold
Pan Spray
Recipe ingredients
Prepare mold for pouring caramel into when finished by lining with aluminum foil, make sure to push all the way into corners. Spray foil lining with vegetable oil pan spray.





Step 2
Put Sugar, Agave Syrup, half of the coconut milk and all of the creamed coconut into a pot. Cook over medium low heat, while stirring constantly.






Step 3
Once the liquid comes to a boil pour in the remaining coconut milk. At this point I clip the candy thermometer to the pan, being careful to make sure the tip is in liquid, not touching either the bottom or the sides of the pot. I wait to stick in the thermometer until after the butter has melted, because I don't like how the butter (or in this case creamed coconut)bumps into the thermometer while I'm stirring.


Step 4
Continue cooking and stirring constantly until the temperature has reached "Soft Ball Stage" 235-240 degrees F. A difference of just half a degree can significantly alter the texture of caramel. There is some interesting information about sugar caramelization here. For this experiment I am stopping the cooking at the very start of soft ball stage, 235 degrees.


Step 5
Continue stirring as you move away from the stove, and pour caramel into already prepared mold. The residual heat in the mixture and the pan will continue to cook the caramel. If you stop stirring it you may get some burnt spots. I sprinkled some toasted coconut flakes over the top, as garnish at this point.Allow to cool for several hours. Chilling briefly in the refrigerator makes the caramel a little easier to unmold and cut.


Step 6
Once completely cool, I lift the foil liner and caramel out of the mold. Begin pulling the foil away from the sides of the caramel, then flip it over to pull the foil off the bottom. When there is something on the top of the caramel (like the toasted coconut here) I find it easiest to cut the caramels while they are still upside down.


Experiment Conclusions:
I really like the intense coconut flavor in this candy. They were a little bit too soft in my opinion. I think that they need to be cooked to then end of soft ball stage, probably around 240 degrees. I'm going to try this recipe again, and take the caramel to a higher temperature.